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The safe you buy should come equipped with heavy duty linkage that is capable of withstanding tremendous amounts of torque through the handle without damaging the lock system or shear pins.
Don't be impressed with multiple locking pins. The heart of the locking system and how it is protected is much more important.
Make sure the hard plate is not directly welded to the door. It is very important that your raised mounting plate be made in a fashion where it is welded firmly to the door and the hard plate slips in between the mounting plate and the surface of the door. The combination box is then bolted to the mounting plate. Welds to the mild steel are many times stronger than are welds to hard plate.
To help avoid moisture problems, your safe should be made in a fashion that will allow weather stripping around the door. Fire safes should come equipped with a fire gasket.
When buying a FIRE RESISTANT gun safe, be certain that the fire insulation used is of a very high quality, such as ceramic. Avoid safes with dead air spaces. Safes using ceramic blanket or bulk ceramic pressed right up against the wall of the safe is a far better method of insulating.
Safes with fully recessed doors give better protection against pry bars and porta-powers.
Be sure your safe has heavy exterior wall that is at least 1/8" thick for burglary protection.
The fire liner should be U.L. listed ceramic fiber insulation material, not sheet rock or fire board.
It has to have at least a two inch thick fire liner encased in a second layer of steel inside the safe.
The door must have a clamping action while the gun safe's dead bolts are being engaged.
You should be able to put a tremendous amount of pressure on the handle shaft itself without twisting or snapping anything on the inside of the door.
The safe bodies should have a one piece wrap around with no vertical seams including the door seat.
Your combination box mounting surface should be welded to the door first, then the hard plate should be able to slip in between.
Your independent re-lock should be protected behind the hard plate.



Questions to ask other safe companies on the market and hopefully they will reply:

No we don't!
Do you use sheet rock in your fire proofing? No!
Do you have doors that lay over the surface of the safe body? (Doors that are not recessed) No!
Does your safe employ "handle cam action type & lock out? (Cam connects to the handle shaft which is being locked out by the combination box) No!
Do you weld your hard plate directly to the door or incorporate welds directly to the hard plate to hold down your combination box? No!
In the event the safe door is attacked by a thief and damaged, is it necessary to ship the entire safe back to the factory for servicing? No!
If the safe door is accidentally shut with the dead bolts in the locked position, will the dead bolts leave marks on the outside surface of the safe body? No!
Is your combination dead bolt not reinforced? (A Combination box dead bolt must have steel reinforcement around it. This support provides essential strength to the locking area) No!
If the safe is laid on its back in a pick-up truck and is then slid off and allowed to strike the ground unevenly on its bottom, is it likely to throw a twist in the body around the door opening, No!
Is your draw bar (or cam), which is being locked out left unprotected once out of the immediate lock are? (Note: it is very important to protect the draw bar with hard plate all the way to its source and at its source be extremely reinforced so that the draw bar cannot be attacked successfully.) causing the door to rub? No!
When the handle or handle shaft is attacked with gripping tools such as vice-grips and then beaten with a hammer, is the linkage made to break apart? (Brutal resistance is extremely important to ward off the effects of a minor attack) No! The heart of the locking system and how it is protected is much more important.


Yes, We Do!
If the hinges are removed, will the safe door remained securely locked? Yes!
Is the door detachable for easy servicing? Yes!
Is your linkage assembly capable of tolerating abuse on a daily basis? Yes!
Is your independent relock protected behind hard plate? Yes!
Is your safe capable of sealing itself when the door is closed? Yes!
Is your fire safe body completely lined on the top, bottom, sides, and door on both sides in front of the safe? Yes!
Do you have a full two inches or better of high quality fire proofing in your fire safes? (Not Sheet rock!) Yes!
Are your safe bodies a one piece wrap around with no vertical seams including the door seat? Yes!
Is the door seat a quadra-formed door seat that actually forms the body itself into a door seat, eliminating all seams? Yes!
Is the top and bottom of the gun safe seam welded, (not skip-welded) all the way around? Yes!
Is your combination box mounting surface welded to the door first with hard plate slipped between? Yes! Extra depth on doors mean extra rigid strength! Are your 1/4" (or thicker) doors at least three inches deep when measured with the frame? Yes!
Is your combination box key-changeable and do you supply the key and instructions on how to change my combination number? Yes!
Do your fire safes come with reinforced holes on the bottom so that they can be bolted down without crushing the inside fire liner? Yes!
Do you install storage trays within the cavity of the doors (on your non-fire lined safes) that do not interfere with storage of items inside the safe? (Available standard on the Minute Man safes and as an option on standard duty safes.) Yes!
Does your safe have mechanical clamping action as the dead bolts engage to seal the door better? (Does the door clamp down as the dead bolts engage?) Can you apply excessive force to the handle shaft or handle without damaging the linkage system or lock? Yes!