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Vault Doors - 35.5"W 6"D 80"H - Custom Sizes Available

  • 2,35000
Shipping and tax included!
Call for custom size pricing.
1-6 week wait time.

  • Outer Dimension for an Out Swing 35.5"W 6"D 80"H
  • Outer Dimension for an InSwing 35.5"W 6"D 80 1/4"H
  • Whole Door Plate Thickness- 5/16" to 1/2" See package tab for more details. 
  • Interior Opening for an Inswing 30"w 79.5"H 
  • Interior Opening for an Outswing 28.5"w 79.5"H
  • Shipped Weight W/Fire:
  • 640 lb. Bare Bones
    685 lb. Most Popular
    800 lb. More Steel & Stainless Steel
  • Shipped Weight W/Out Fire: 
  • 590 lb. Bare Bones 
    650 lb. Most Popular
    750 lb. More Steel & Stainless Steel

    What comes standard:

    • 5/16" Door

    Can't get anymore bare bones than this, yet still be a step above the competition. This is the perfect package for the customer who wants to stop a non powered tool (ex: pike axes, crow bars, sledge hammers) from breaching the vault.

    What comes standard:

    • 3/8" Door
    • 8x12" Stainless Upgrade

    These are  the most popular options customers order. It's the perfect package for the customer who wants to stop a high powered tool (ex: grinders, sawsalls) from breaching the vault longer than the 5/16" door would perform. Comes with a 8x12" Stainless Upgrade that is 3/16" thick, which protects the heart of the lock system from any high power tool attack by covering: the combo box area, hardplate, relock and striker (which is the primary piece of linkage being locked out). Since this plate is on the exterior of the door, it adds to the commercial look of the vault, which customers really enjoy, and burglars question.

    What comes standard:

    • 5/16" Door
    • 8x12" Stainless Upgrade
    • 3/16" Full Door Reinforcement 

    More steel, the better. Perfect for the customer who wants to add 2x the break in time with high power tools, in the areas it matters most. Comes with the 8x12" Stainless Upgrade as mentioned above. The entire 5/16" plate door will be covered in a 3/16" plate, bringing the total door thickness to 1/2".

    What comes standard:

    • 5/16" Door
    • 8x12" Stainless Upgrade
    • 3/16" Full Stainless Door Reinforcement 

    Torch attacks happen, and when they do you will be ready with this 3/16" thick, stainless steel plate option. Adds about 4x the break in time with any high power tool. Comes with the 8x12" Stainless Upgrade. One layer of 3/16" Stainless performs like 9/16" non stainless. It's the ultimate in security for torch resistance (or any other cutting tool), without all the weight of resorting to a cement filled vault.

     Intimidator Fire Insulator

    The Whole Door Is Stuffed The Exact Same Way, With 2.5" Of 2300° Ceramic & 1" of Glass Blanket. Then, It's Compressed By A 16 Gauge Inside Steel Liner. A fire gasket cannot be added.  Click here for information on our fire rating and other detailed information. 


    This will allow you to lock yourself inside the vault with the push of a palm button, such as you would need for a panic room. Pulling the button unlocks. With the push button engaged, it is impossible to spin the dial from the outside, thus preventing anyone from locking you inside. If you did not engage the push button and someone was to lock you in by spinning the dial on the outside (which is a very purposeful act) it would require 3 minutes of work and a couple of basic tools to get out. 

    Twin Lock System- One Spin, One Electronic

    Two, separate and complete locking systems that force locksmiths to breach two dials instead of just one. Both dials need to be in working condition in order to get in. One dial does not override the other. The first dial is the original spin dial (S&G group 2 model 6730 in black) that comes with the safe, and the other dial is the Electronic Lock (S&G D-Drive) This option has additional benefits such as, ease of access (by leaving the spin dial in the unlocked position, and just using the electronic to get it). The electronic will have a 2 year warranty. Going beyond the 2 year mark: we void the warranty wherever we state we will cover the locksmith entry, and replacement dial. However, we will still honor the rest of the warranty.

    Twin Lock System- Two Spin Dials
    Two, separate and complete locking systems, that force a locksmith entry to breach two dials instead of just one. Both spin dials need to be in working condition in order to get in, and are S&G group 2 model 6730 (in the easy read black). One dial does not override the other.

    D-Drive Electronic Lock

    These light up group 1 electronic dials by S&G have less moving parts, and boast a longer longevity. Less parts = less to potentially breakEven though they will last longer, we still recommend electronic locks to be used for people who have a hard time seeing the numbers on standard dials, because, like most electronic devices, they are not made to last forever. These are warranted for two years including locksmith entries. 

    Gold Hardware
    Add instant class to your color changed safe by switching the handle, dial and decals to gold. Perfect for those searching for beauty and brawn.

    Key In Dial
    This is not to be used as a quick access into the safe! It's strictly to lock the dial on whoever else you gave the combination to, so they cannot get in. These cannot be put on electronic locks.

    Locksmith Resistant Hard Plate Upgrade
    A hard plate comes standard with every Sturdy Safe, however, this option is designed to keep locksmiths outIt's a diamond/ carbide bit resistant, machine tool pin hardplate, as hard as ball bearings, that protects the primary linkage being locked out, all the way to it's source. Odds are very high a locksmith would need to destroy the safe in order to gain access in. For this option, you would need to believe a burglar is smart enough to know locksmith entries, which has never happened in our whole history.  THIS VOIDS A SMALL PART OF THE LIFETIME WARRANTY by making the  home owner pay for the locksmith entry if ever one is needed.

    Extra Lifetime Warranty
    To better understand what this warranty will cover, you should know what the standard warranty covers first: We will fix or replace the safe for free if you were burglarized, in a fire (for a fire lined safe), or if the safe is malfunctioning in anyway, shape or form. When it comes to the malfunctioning or fire, we will cover shipping (back and forth) as well as locksmith entries if needed. When it comes to the burglary, you would need to pay for shipping and locksmith entry (unless you get this extra warranty).  
    Read Even More Details Here...

    standard color gun safe


     Dark Gray and Black Speckle


    This is the new color that comes standard unless requested otherwise. It blends in best for majority of rooms and garages.  These speckled semi gloss enamel color changes look amazing. Because of the speckle, it's easy to touch them up without noticing, and it doesn't shows smudges, so cleaning the safe will not be needed as much as solid color changes.


    BLUE AND BLACK Speckle sturdy safe

    Tang Blue and Black Speckle


    This is a very vibrant blue that is sure to turn heads. These speckled semi gloss enamel color changes look amazing. Because of the speckle, it's easy to touch them up without noticing, and it doesn't shows smudges, so cleaning the safe will not be needed as much as solid color changes.


    gren color change gun safe

    Hunter Green and Black Speckle


    This is a very dark green that blends in most hunters dens pretty easy. These speckled semi gloss enamel color changes look amazing. Because of the speckle, it's easy to touch them up without noticing, and it doesn't shows smudges, so cleaning the safe will not be needed as much as solid color changes.


    black on black gun safe

    Matte Black and Gloss Black Speckle


    Solid black is boring, so we brought on the speckling with a matte and gloss black combo. These speckled semi gloss enamel color changes look amazing. Because of the speckle, it's easy to touch them up without noticing, and it doesn't shows smudges, so cleaning the safe will not be needed as much as solid color changes.

    Make your opening a minimum of 5/8" to 3/4" (total) extra room from side to side and 1/2" extra room from top to bottom. Make it a 1/4" larger than that if you do not have much faith in your cement guy. Purchase 10 anchors that are 1/2" to 5/8" in diameter and 3-4" in length. When mounted, and the door open, figure a minimum of 9/16" worth of clearance from the bottom of the door, to the floor, so keep in mind the thickness of your carpet, tile, etc, to determine if you need to create more of a threshold. You are basically hanging it like any pre-hung door, with the exception that it's too heavy to shift around as easy. It allows total adjustment of the frame to match the hang attitude of the door. There are no flanges, so you can recess the door as far in the opening as your opening depth will allow. Here is a forum where a customer shows how he built his vault room, and talks about how he installed his Sturdy Vault.



    Read the entire instructions before beginning! Be cautious, and use good judgment. These instruction are just an outline, and installation of the vaults are recommended to be done by a professional. We will not be liable for death, injury, or damage to property. Put the vault into position as shown here. Be sure to have it layed down on some type of support so the dial and handle does not get damaged.

    Once erect, at least one man will need to be on the inside. Position it in the doorway, the way you want it. Do not worry about the attitude of the door at this time. Put some marks around the frame on the cement door entry way. Then, you will need a few guys to help open and stabilize the door. The door might drag around the framing when opening at this point, but no worries. Most doors will need a pry bar or 2x4 to pry up (and out) to a 90 degree angle. To not loose fingers, be cautious of pinch points. As the door swings open, lift and pull the door at the same time, stabilizing the frame.
    Once open, the door will need support on the outside corner, to help hold it up and to move frame back into the marked position (remember the marks you put on the cement door way).
    This is a bad example picture, but place an anchor stud ONLY in the frames anchor holes near the top and bottom hinge. Now that the frame is secure on one side, there should be a gap on the other side. If the door doesn't match up, hammer the frame in or out, and then wedge it (with wedging blocks) into marked position. Open and close the door, and check the attitude of the door compared to it's steel frame. Carefully close the door. Once closed, determine which direction you should shim the frame (between cement and frame). If the door is fitting well into the frame, both center locking lugs should engage and disengage with perhaps a little bit of clearance. If these conditions are good, skip to the last pictures instructions.
    You should be reading this section because the frame may require adjustments with shims. Where you insert the shims will depend on what part of the frame is sticking out. For example, when you shut the door, and the door hits on the top first, and doesn't quite close on the bottom, you would loosen up the top anchor, and slide a 1/8" (or thicker/thinner) shim in between the frame and the wall, and place the shim about an inch away from the upper anchor bolt. Tighten the anchor back up and make sure the frame is fitting good. This may require more tapping with a big hammer and wedging into position. If you have an outswing vault door, adjust the gap in between the frame and door, by removing the square tubing that is located about 4ft up, and in the way of the walk through area. If the door is rubbing on the bottom, loosen the bottom stud, and place a shim all the way across, just below the stud. When you tighten it up, it will drive the frame upward on the open side.
    Now that the frame is fitting good, go ahead and fill the gap between the frame and cement wall, which should be about 5/8" to 3/4" with mortar. Let it cure, then remove the wedges, and fill in the wedge gaps with mortar. Test to see if the door open and closes properly. Finish installing the rest of the anchor studs at this point. If you need anymore tips, please give us a call.



    Smaller Semi Truck

    Most freight companies will deliver with full sized freight trucks, however, we will look into getting a smaller truck if you have a tricky driveway a full sized truck can't maneuver in. Usually, these are 28ft trailers, and you still need to account for the tractor itself. Due to some locations, it could delay the estimated day of arrival. If you feel you could have issues with any freight trucks to your location, please let us know in advance, or the freight company will only have the option of dropping it off curbside. On occasion, freight companies tell us there are small trucks available when there is not. We try our hardest to prevent this from happening, but there is no guarantee we can get a small truck to you.

    Garage Delivery
    This is a free option if you have cleared a path for the pallet jack and have a smooth surface for it to roll on from the truck location, into the garage. No bumps, steps, gravel, grass, steep inclines, or anything a pallet jack, with one truck driver, cannot handle. Please note, truck drivers do not lower their lift gates on an incline, because they want to avoid damaging your driveway. This option is not guaranteed. They will not take the safe off the pallet or unwrap it.

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